I'm Thinking About Launching a NEW Long Arm Linky Party! Would YOU Participate?

Good morning, my lovelies!  Before I share my custom quilting progress on my Spirit Song project, I'd love it if you'd take a second to give me feedback on an idea I've been kicking around for a new linky party.

When I tried to link up my last quilting post with Karin's Ruler Work linky at The Quilt Yarn, I was disappointed to read that she has decided to discontinue hosting her link-up due to low participation levels.  Like many of you, I already participate in quite a few linky parties (One Monthly Goal, Design Wall Monday, To Do Tuesday, to name a few).  I love that these parties attract a wide variety of participants, from hand quilters to longarm quilters, modern to traditional, appliqué, paper piecing, and everything in between.  I have discovered lots of creative quilt bloggers and inspiration through these link-ups.  

However, right now I'm making a concerted effort to develop my long arm quilting skills, and it would be really helpful to connect with a community of other machine quilters who are working through similar challenges.  I'm always so excited when I stumble across another long arm quilter's blog, whether it's a seasoned professional quilter, a teacher, or a hobby quilter like me.        I want to see and read about the different rulers, notions, and gadgets other quilters are experimenting with and finding useful for machine quilting, which threads and battings they are using and how they like them, and the challenges they are encountering and overcoming as they become more proficient with their machines, where they are finding the best online or in-person classes and workshops, etc.  Also, although I'm quilting with a long arm machine mounted to a frame, I realize that there is a lot of crossover between machine quilting on a frame, sit down long arm machines like the Sweet 16 or the Q20, and quilting with a domestic sewing machine.  This would be an all-inclusive linky party, open to anyone who wants to share their machine quilting, regardless of what kind of machine they're using.

I understand that hosting a linky party is a big ongoing commitment, with even more time required in the beginning to get the word out to other quilters.  I am willing to take this on, as long as there is interest out there from other quilters -- so please answer my poll (above) to let me know how YOU feel about it.  Feel free to share any other suggestions about the linky party in the comments section, like if there's a particular day of the week you prefer, how long you think the link party should be open, etc.  Thank you!

...And Now, Back to the Quilt On My Frame:

Meanwhile, custom quilting on Spirit Song is progressing, slowly but surely.  I've been pretty consistent about getting in an hour or two of quilting time most days.  I finished the first long border a few days ago (my quilt is loaded on my frame sideways, so the "top" is really one of the long sides of the quilt).  

I know it's hard to see my quilting design against the large-scale floral print, so youmight think of all this time I'm spending quilting the borders with rulers as a wasted effort.  But it's really good practice, and it's nice to know that if I DO get a minor bobble or "whoopsie!" here or there, it's not going to jump out at anyone because it's camouflaged by the fabric print.

Chalk Stencil Marking for String of Pearls Border

Since I opted to use blue quilting thread in my wide outer border, I moved right into the skinny blue inner border after that.  And I'm being BRAVE -- I'm trying to quilt a "String of Pearls" in this border -- half inch circles!  In order to bolster my courage, I am marking the circles with a Full Line stencil and Quilt Pounce Stencil Chalk as a guide to help me quilt pearls that are somewhat round, consistent in size, evenly spaced, and to ensure that I end with a full circle when I come to the corner.  Interestingly (and thankfully!), the pounce chalk powder markings are lasting longer with this border design than the exact same chalk powder did for the swirly free motion designs that I was marking in the interior of the quilt.  Several possiblilities for why that might be:

• I'm using a commercially made Full Line stencil for my String of Pearls border rather than a DIY vellum paper stencil perforated with a sewing machine needle.  This stencil has a very fine mesh with very tiny holes that allow the chalk through the stencil in more controlled amounts.
• The pieced blocks in the interior of my quilt got a shot of starch after each and every seam was pieced and pressed open, and again as the blocks were joined together into a quilt top, whereas the blue border was only starched once after the border was attached to the quilt.  The interior of the quilt, where the starch was applied in many layers, may have filled in the nooks and crannies of the fabric weave and created a Teflon-like nonstick finish that the chalk can't settle into as well as it does with the only slightly starched border fabric.
• I am quilting my pearl circles pretty slowly in an attempt to keep them round, and I feel like my quilting machine creates less vibration and bounce to the quilt top at this slower speed, and that may be contributing to the longevity of the chalked markings as well.

For whatever reason, I'm very much relieved that I was able to mark the entire length of this pearl border first and then quilt it in one pass, from corner to corner, and still have clear, distinct circle marks to follow when I reached the end.  

Experimenting With a Smaller Needle

One more thing I changed last night: I put in a new needle -- again! -- and this time, I went with a size 3.5 Groz Beckert industrial needle rather than the 4.0 needle I had been using previously with my So Fine #50 in the needle and Bottom Line #60 in the bobbin combination.  Superior Threads has a handy reference chart on their web site that suggests optimal needle sizes for each of their threads, and size 4.0 is what they recommend for So Fine #50, but size 3.0 is recommended for the 60 weight Bottom Line thread that I'm using in the bottom, so I wanted to see what would happen if I split the difference and went down to a 3.5 needle.  It's a subtle difference, but especially when I'm checking stitch quality on the back of my quilt, the stitches do look better to me when that tiny little Bottom Line bobbin thread isn't swimming in a gigantic hole from a size 4.0 needle.  And I'm not seeing any shredding or thread breaks to my So Fine top thread, so the 3.5 needle eye seems to be plenty big enough for the So Fine thread diameter.

Here's what my inner border of pearls looked like once I'd finished the quilting and wiped away the white chalk markings.  Disappointing, right?!  I was really nervous about trying to quilt half inch circles on a real quilt for the first time, and I thought a blending blue thread color would be my safest option.  But now that I've quilted it and it didn't come out nearly as terrible as I thought it would, I'm bummed that I can't SEE the pearls I quilted!  I wish I'd quilted them in silver metallic instead!  Ah, well -- Live and learn!  Perhaps the quilting texture will be more apparent after I wash the finished quilt.  Next time, I'll make bolder thread choices where I want my quilting to be noticed!

I've also started quilting the two different motifs that I selected for my blue half square triangles throughout the interior of my quilt, since I'm already threaded up with blue.  One of the design is a free motion "lollipop flower" with swirly leaves (at least that's what I'm envisioning as I'm quilting it), and the other one is a simple straight line motif that has me reaching for a ruler once again.

When I tried to quilt this little motif totally freehand, the results were not pretty.  If I was a seasoned pro, any straight line ruler would have worked fine.  I quickly realized that, as a newbie, I needed help gauging where my needle would end up in relation to the angle of my ruler edge, especially since I'm quilting lines that angle away from my seam lines.  My HandiQuilter Versa Tool came to the rescue!  This ruler has little quarter inch extension notches at either end of the straight edge, etched with a faint marking to indicate where the needle will end up if your hopping foot stitches along the straight edge of the ruler.  I've added little pieces of pink OmniGrid Glow Line Tape to the back side of those ruler extensions for even greater visibility.

The long strip of wide, clear tape that you see along the straight edge of my ruler is super cheap, but super effective, NexCare Clear First Aid Tape that reduces unwanted slipping and sliding when I'm quilting with rulers.  You can find that at your local pharmacy, or order it on Amazon here.  

Well, that's all I have for you today.  My To-Do for Tuesday goal is to keep plugging away at the borders and blue HSTs on my Spirit Song quilt, and hopefully progress to the final quilting stage of the off-white background fills.  I'll wrap this up with a photo of a lovely gardenia in my front yard.  I love how, when I take a picture of an all-white blossom and then blow it up BIG on my computer screen, I see so many different colors in the petals, from shades of white, cream, and gray, to ivories and butter yellows.  It reminds me of Georgia O'Keefe's flower paintings!  

Please remember to vote in my linky party poll if you haven't already done so, and share any other thoughts you have about that in the blog comments.  Have a great day, and I hope you get to do some quilting!  I'm linking today's post up with my favorite linky parties:

FRIDAY

·       Whoop Whoop Fridays at Confessions of a Fabric Addict

·       Finished Or Not Friday at Alycia Quilts

·       Off the Wall Friday at Nina Marie Sayre

 

·       Tips and Tutorials on the 22^nd at: Kathleen McMusing

SATURDAY

·       UFO Busting at Tish in Wonderland

SUNDAY

·       Oh Scrap! at Quilting Is More Fun Than Housework

MONDAY

·       Design Wall Monday at Small Quilts and Doll Quilts  

·       Monday Making at Love Laugh Quilt

·       BOMs Away Katie Mae Quilts  

TUESDAY

·       Colour and Inspiration Tuesday at Clever Chameleon

·       To-Do Tuesday at Home Sewn By Us

WEDNESDAY

·       Midweek Makers at Quilt Fabrication

·       Wednesday Wait Loss at The Inquiring Quilter

THURSDAY

·       Needle and Thread Thursday at My Quilt Infatuation  

·       Free Motion Mavericks at Quilting & Learning Combo OR at Lizzie Lenard Vintage Sewing

Stencils for Long Arm Quilting, Part Three: None of the Magic Tricks Are Working

If you've been following along with me recently, you know that I've been experimenting with the use of homemade stencils and chalk powder to transfer quilting designs onto my Spirit Song quilt.  My DIY stencils are made of 24 pound vellum paper that I've stitched through with an unthreaded domestic sewing machine to perforate the design lines, and since I've already completed all of the SID (stitch in the ditch) quilting on this quilt, it's already loaded onto my long arm frame.  In case you're wondering, there is absolutely no way you could use chalk powder to mark an entire quilt PRIOR to loading it on the frame, because the chalk powder is just resting on the surface of the quilt and if you touch it, move the fabric after marking it, or even breathe on it, it's gone.

Such a Quick Method of Transferring a Design!

Here's what I'm finding: When you see these stencils and powdered marking chalk products demonstrated at quilt shows or in online videos, they are usually demonstrating these products on a single piece of fabric that is laying on a table top.  Transferring a stencil design with chalk powder works much better against a flat surface, and I could not consistently achieve a clean, full design transfer unless I had some kind of flat surface pressing up against the bottom of my quilt.  With smaller stencils, I had good results transferring the stencil design with my machine head positioned so that I could support my quilt with the ruler base while transferring the design, but if I was trying to transfer a large design, like a border pattern, I would need to rig something up beneath my frame in order to get a clean transfer of the entire design.

White Zinc Stearate Magic Chalk on Left (Orange) and Pounce Chalk in Blue on right (Yellow)

However, that may be a moot point.  I have now tried both the original white Pounce Chalk product, the blue Pounce Chalk product, and the zinc stearate Magic Chalk that is supposed to stick to your quilt better than the Pounce Chalk product, removing with steam.  [I didn't have a separate pounce pad for the blue chalk, just a bag of the chalk powder to try, which is why I'm applying that chalk with a foam paint brush in the photo above].  You guys, I saw ZERO difference between these products.  If anything, the chalk powders that were supposed to stick better and were supposed to be MORE difficult to remove actually stuck to my quilt surface not at ALL and disappeared even faster!

80% of Magic Chalk Bounced Off As Soon as I Began Stitching

When you are trying to follow a design line that you've carefully marked on your quilt and it's vanishing before you can stitch it, it's very frustrating!  

The Blue Pounce Chalk That's Supposed to be Harder to Remove

I thought for sure the blue Pounce Chalk would stick to my quilt long enough for me to quilt the design, because a few quilters had warned me that they still had some of that blue pigment remaining in their finished quilts that they couldn't remove once the quilting was finished.  I am absolutely mystified by that.  In the photo above, the periwinkle chalk dust is the blue Pounce Chalk that bounced right off my quilt, completely removing itself as soon as I started stitching, and the couple of places where you see more of a teal line are spots where I filled in the incomplete stenciled design with my blue washaway marker.  All of the chalk disappeared the instant I began stitching, and only the marker lines remained.

This Time, I Wet My Fabric Patch Before Applying the Stencil with Chalk Powder

One tip that I'd read about was to mist the surface of your quilt with water before applying the stencil with chalk powder, to make it "grab" the chalk and hold onto it long enough for you to quilt the design.  Well, I can't spray water all over my quilt because I'm also using the blue water soluble marker to mark my ruler work lines and I don't want those lines disappearing on me.  But I did saturate a scrap of cotton batting with water and pressed that into my fabric patch to wet it prior to applying a chalk stencil.  Did this make any difference, though?  Nope!

Still Pretty Hard to See Once I Start Stitching

Theories as to why these products and tips may be working better for other quilters than they are for me:

1. Is there a difference in the amount of vibration between different quilting machines?  Is my APQS Millennium just "bouncier" than Jamie Wallen's HandiQuilter or someone else's domestic sewing machine that they are quilting with?

2. By the time a quilt top is loaded onto my frame, it has been HEAVILY starched.  I starched every seam of every block throughout construction, because starch helps me achieve a flat, square quilt top with nice, crisp points throughout.  But maybe the quilters who are using stencils with powdered chalk to mark their quilts are not starch fanatics like I am.  If we were to compare a heavily starched piece of cotton fabric to an unstarched piece of cotton fabric under a microscope, I'll bet the unstarched fabric has a rougher surface texture that the chalk powder is able to settle into, especially into those tiny holes in between the warp and weft yarns.  My starch has probably filled in those holes and smoothed any microscopic yarn slubs that the chalk powder could have grabbed onto, giving me a nonstick quilt surface kind of like Teflon in a frying pan.

All Stitched Out

I don't know -- now that I'm looking at these photos of the yellow triangle that I dampened with water before stenciling, maybe the chalk DID stay on better during stitching?  That would actually make sense, because wetting the starched fabric makes the layer of starch a little bit tacky to "grab" the chalk.  Maybe I was just having trouble seeing my little white chalk dots against this particular fabric that has such a profusion of dots and splotches all over the place.  Maybe I'll try wetting the fabric before stenciling again on a couple of different fabric patches with the different chalks before giving up and moving on.

These Look Better Than the Ones I Quilted Two Days Ago

One thing I can tell you is that I'm already seeing improvement from the first couple of times I quilted this motif to the ones I quilted last night.  My curls are more consistent on both sides of each triangle, the curly ends are more rounded, and the echo spacing of the curls is more even.  Also, in the places where the stitching IS a little wonky, my blending Peach Tart So Fine 50 weight thread is camouflaging the oopses nicely.

The First Two Attempts at Quilting This Motif

I don't know how obvious this is to other people comparing these photos, but in the one above there were several places where I lost control for a moment and a line that I intended to be smooth twisted away, or a line that I meant to echo back on a curl was super thick in some places and then super thin in others.  It should be interesting to compare these first attempts to the last ones that I will quilt when I get to the bottom of the quilt.

Still Not Great, But Better Than the First One!

In the photo above, the yellow and pink fabric patch is still wet -- that's why you see the seam allowance shadowing through so badly.  It will look fine when it's completely dry.

Still Wet.  From a Distance, Can't Really See Anything Anyway

You know, these crazy prints and my blending thread do a great job of hiding the skips and bobbles, but they also make it hard to see what I'm quilting WHILE I'm quilting it.  It might be better to plan the next quilt so I'm doing these designs on fabric that will show the quilting more distinctly.

Super Bad Tension MUST Come Out!

I also ripped out and requilted some of the bad eyelash stitching that I showed you last time.  A couple of you advised me to leave those stitches in because "no one will ever know," but I know better from experience!  If your tension is off so badly that you have eyelashes on the back of your quilt as shown in the photo above, it's not just an aesthetic issue.  That bobbin thread is just floating against the backing fabric, barely attached with long loops of top thread that were pulled clear through to the back of the quilt.  When you wash that quilt for the first time and it shrinks -- and yes, it WILL shrink, even if you preshrunk all of your fabrics -- you end up with loose thread all over the back of the quilt that will catch and snag and rip right out of the quilt.  Tension that bad is just not "structurally sound."  What's more, these stitches are faster and easier to remove than nice, balanced stitches that lock together within the batting layer of the quilt.  You just clip the beginning and end of the flat stitching line from the back of the quilt, grab the bobbin thread with your tweezers, and the whole line of stitching slides right out in one piece.  Hideous tension stitches are the only quilting stitches that come out faster than they were sewn.

So, where does that leave us?  I think I have some more lousy tension to rip out and restitch before advancing the quilt.  It's hard to tell for sure until I roll that bit up onto the pickup roller of the frame, because I get vertigo when I keep crawling under the frame and trying to look up to evaluate the stitching.  Now I'm wishing that I'd taken the time to attach the zipper leaders to my canvas leaders (I've had them for three years, still in the package), because it would be so much easier to unzip the top edge of this quilt from the pickup roller, flip the quilt backside up to locate and remove the bad stitches, and then zip that edge right back onto the frame to resume quilting.  Woulda, shoulda, coulda!  I can't attach zipper leaders while I've got a quilt loaded on the frame, though, so I'm just going to have to keep rolling the quilt back and forth to rip and restitch one yucky bit at a time.

Happy Thursday, all of you.  I hope you get some time in your sewing rooms today!

Stencils for Long Arm Quilting, Part Two: Because There is No Such Thing as Being "Ready"

Transferring my DIY Stencil with Pounce Chalk

After a week of avoidance behavior, I finally started quilting again last night.  Ta da!

Hopefully This is the Ugliest Quilting On This Quilt

This is where I started, with that orange polka dot triangle in the top left.  It took all of the will power I could muster to leave those stitches in the quilt and keep going!

I ran across this quote by British actor Hugh Laurie this morning, and it's EXACTLY what I needed to hear right now.  Well, that quote combined with an amazing AQS video interview of Bethanne Nemesh that I saw the day before.  If you are a quilter, or an artist, or a person who aspires to ever be one of those things, it is totally worth your time to watch it.  Seriously; watch this right now -- I'll wait!

So much good stuff in there about being true to yourself and following your own creative path rather than trying too hard to follow fads, trends, and abide by challenges!  But did you catch what she said about the custom long arm quilting we see winning awards at top shows?  She's right -- almost without exception (and I can't even think of any exceptions, can you?) those are quilters who were long arm quilting professionally as a full-time business at some point in their past.  Bethanne says that, when she was quilting for others, she was longarm quilting for forty hours per week, every week for eleven YEARS in order to develop the skills she has now.  Let's do the math on that:

40 hrs/wk x 52 wks/yr x 11 yrs = 22,880 hours of actual quilting (not just "practicing"), is how long it takes to get good at it!

Assuming that we all acquire skills at a similar rate, if I wanted to be even half as good at long arm quilting as Bethanne Nemesh (and even that is a very lofty goal), I should invest over 11,000 hours actually DOING IT.  Hugh Laurie said, "no one is ever ready to do anything," but Bethanne Nemesh takes that a step further by suggesting that the only way you can GET ready to do something is to start doing it now, BEFORE you're ready!  

With that in mind, back to my Spirit Song quilt.  It took me a long time to mark the first section for quilting, several hours.  Straight lines for ruler work are marked in blue water erasable marker.  Then I used Pounce Chalk to transfer a few of my DIY stencils to my quilt, although I was frustrated that my lines weren't clear until I piled random objects beneath my frame to create a tower with a hard surface to press against just beneath my quilt:

IKEA Cart + Empty Plastic Drawer Bins + Appliqué Press Board = Marking Tower

I found it much easier to mark straight lines as well as stencils with a hard surface beneath my quilt.  Yay!  I might get a second IKEA cart like this one, add a hard plastic mat beneath my long arm frame so the cart slides better over the carpeting, and ask my husband to build me something lightweight that fits over the top of the cart for the additional height so it doesn't knock off the cart as easily as the empty storage drawers do.

Stencil Transferred Beautifully with Hard Surface Beneath Quilt!  Pounce Chalk with DIY Stencil

However, this might not be needed for transferring chalk stencils, after all.  The original white Pounce Chalk has the advantage of being a super safe, easy to remove marking method for quilts that you don't want to wash or wet.  The marks go down quickly with a swipe of the pounce pad, and with something hard beneath the quilt surface, those marks came out clean and clear.  But as soon as I started quilting the ruler work adjacent to the stenciled design, the vibrations from the machine started shaking the chalk dust right off the surface of my quilt!  YIKES!

Chalk Lines Start Blurring as I'm Quilting Ruler Lines Nearby

See how the lines are beginning to blur?  I could still see the design as I was beginning to quilt this motif, but almost all of the chalked lines had disappeared before I was halfway done quilting the design!

Machine Vibration Bounces Chalk Right Off the Quilt Top

And yes, I know that the curls I quilted look pretty wretched, stencil or no stencil.  I can only assure you that they would look even worse if I hadn't given myself guide lines to follow!  

These Chalked Lines Come Off Way Too Easily!

Actually, I can see how much the guide lines helped me by looking at this completed motif that I quilted on that peach triangle.  Look at the photo below -- the left side of that motif, where I started, looks MUCH better than the right side of the motif, because I stitched the center diamond thingy first, then the curls to the left of center, and by the time I was quilting the curls on the right side of the center, my guide lines had all but disappeared.  

See the Difference Between the Left and Right Sides of the Peach Motif? 

Hancy, the manufacturer of Pounce Chalk, recommends setting the marked chalk lines with cheap hair spray or with a fine mist of Mary Ellen's Best Press (using a special aerosol spray bottle, NOT the bottle it comes in).  Jaime Wallen uses cheap Dollar Store hair spray with stencils and Pounce Chalk, too -- he lays the stencil over the quilt, swipes the pounce pad over the stencil to transfer the design, and then gives a quick spritz of hair spray BEFORE removing the stencil so the hair spray adheres to the chalk powder only, with no overspray going onto the quilt fabric.  Ugh...  Y'all, I do not WANT to spray hair spray on my quilt, on my stencils, anywhere near my long arm machine...  I would be willing to try the Mary Ellen's Best Press idea if I was using a washable commercially made stencil, but I can't wash my vellum paper DIY stencils to remove buildup of hairspray or sizing and I don't have one of those aerosol mister bottles anyway.  Ergo, these are some of the things I will try next:

• I purchased a competitor brand of chalk powder, Miracle Chalk, that is advertised as sticking to the quilt surface better without needing anything sprayed onto it.  It's a white powdered chalk that comes with the same kind of fluffy swipe pad delivery system, but whatever doesn't wipe off your quilt with a lint brush or soft rag after quilting is supposed to come out with washing or with steam.  I'll try that and see if I notice any difference.
• Instead of marking multiple chalk stencils ahead of time, I'll wait to mark each stenciled motif until right before I'm ready to stitch it -- and I may be able to use the ruler base on my quilting machine as the hard surface beneath the quilt if I do it that way, too.  
• If I'm still having trouble with the chalk bouncing off my quilt too soon, I suppose I could get one of those aerosol misters to use with Mary Ellen's Best Press.  The Lavender scent of that stuff smells much better than Aquanet...  And I'm pretty sure my not-quite-local LQS sells those aerosol misters, and if I schedule an appointment I could even shop there IN PERSON...
• Absolute worst case scenario, I could probably draw each of these designs onto my quilt freehand with the blue washout marker, but that would take so much more time than the pounce chalk, and I really want to come up with a go-to method of stenciling that will work for more complex designs in the future.

I'm still not sure about my thread choice, by the way.  The matte peach So Fine thread seems a little wimpy, doesn't it?  Should I have stuck with the King Tut 40 weight after all -- or would the sheen of Glide thread have been better?  Here's what the other motif looks like quilted out.  Again, I know this is pretty rough but I'm leaving it in for now.  It's not going to get any better if I don't keep at it, and if I improve enough by the time I get to the bottom of the quilt I can always come back, rip this out, and redo it at the end:

Blech...  Nowhere To Go But UP, right?!  Room for Improvement!

Here's another fun bit to share.  I thought I didn't need to mark those little accent diagonal lines on my actual quilt, I could just add them with my ruler as I went along.  

Can You Even See What I Quilted?

Yeah, no.  It's obvious which way the diagonal lines should go on a complete block, but not on the partial blocks along the edges of the quilt, where I'm starting.  I quilted these lines in the wrong direction last night!!

Yellow Lines Indicate Where Those Quilting Lines SHOULD Have Gone

See what I mean about the wimpy thread, though?  I know I'm quilting mostly on prints right now, but still...  Even on the solid pink fabric, this thread is underwhelming me.  I suppose I could fill in every other one of those piano key rectangles with scribble squiggles or something, but I'm afraid that I can't scribble between the lines.  Also, I'm not going to get a fabulous texture impact from really dense quilting since I'm using a single layer of cotton batting that doesn't have enough loft to really puff up in the less quilted areas.  And yet, the more thread I quilt into this quilt, the more I'll learn from it, right?  We'll see how I feel about it after I rip out those diagonal quilted lines that I put in the wrong direction last night!

Last Peek for This Post

My To-Do for this week is going to be just pressing on with this quilting, slowly but surely...  I'll try to get in at least 30 minutes per day.  Wish me luck!

I'm linking up today's post with the following linky parties:

SUNDAY

·       Oh Scrap! at Quilting Is More Fun Than Housework

MONDAY

·       Design Wall Monday at Small Quilts and Doll Quilts  

·       Monday Making at Love Laugh Quilt

·       BOMs Away Katie Mae Quilts  

TUESDAY

·       Colour and Inspiration Tuesday at Clever Chameleon

·       To-Do Tuesday at Home Sewn By Us

·       Let’s Do Some Ruler Work at The Quilt Yarn